Category Archives: Wooden Deck Builder Durban

Wooden Sundeck, Toti, Durban

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Wooden Sundeck Installer Durban

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We built this wooden sundeck in Toti using CCA Pine, for the first time, as our substructure and decked it using balau deckboards. For a long time I have been using only balau as a substructure. But after some careful investigation I have accepted that a CCA treated pine substructure is as good if not better than a balau one.

The manufacturers of the solution that is used to pressure treat the timber guarantee their product for between 30 to 50 years depending on which manufacturer you use. Provided the company doing the pressure treatment treats it correctly and provided the correct Hazard Level (H level) is used in the correct application, the timber will be guaranteed against rot and insect infestation by the manufacturer of the solution. I will write another more detailed article on CCA pressure treatments, but for the purpose of this article you will need to know what it broadly means.

Wooden Sundeck Installer Durban

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H2 CCA Treated pine is good for roof trusses where it is not exposed to the elements such as rain. H3 treated is good for outdoors such as decks and H4 is good for in the ground or in contact with wet soil. H5 is good for in salty water and is normally a combination of CCA and creosote treatment. H2 is commonly sold off the shelf at most timber yards. H3 and H4 is more specialised so one needs to find a supplier who is regularly treating to H3 or H4. Under no circumstances should H2 be used as a substitute. It will rot within a few years. Simple. Do not use it in decks, keep it for the roof.

Wooden Sundeck Installer Durban

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In order to activate a guarantee against the manufacturer one would need to take photos of the deck going up ensuring that the correct H level is used, an audit process would need to be completed on the company treating the timber and the build would probably need to be registered with the manufacturer and possibly inspections conducted during the build. So although it is possible to activate a guarantee, it is not really practical as the substructure will go up in 2 days and the deck will be done in 5 days. However, if the manufacturer is willing to offer this sort of guarantee, then we can safely assume that the timber we are using will hold up to its promise. In a nutshell, H3 or H4 treated CCA Pine is suitable for a substructure for a deck and may very well outlast a balau substructure. I would not be too keen to use it as deckboards for two reasons. Although it won’t rot or get eaten by ants, it will expand and contract a lot more than balau which will result in checking, cracking, warping, bowing etc. over time. The second reason is that because it is half as dense, one needs to use a 32mm thick deckboard as opposed to a 19mm deckboard in balau. So twice as much timber is used and the cost is actually slightly more in pine per square metre than balau. So why not use balau in the surface? It is much better looking and much more stable (i.e. it remains flat for many more years).

Wooden Sundeck Installer Durban

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The cost saving in using CCA pine vs. balau in the substructure is great and this allows me to keep my prices low whilst still providing a quality product. The CCA Pine will last as long if not longer than the balau substructure if the correct H grade of CCA pine is used.

All areas that have pine exposed are clad with deckboards so that the pine is not visible. Balustrades remain full balau.

For a no obligation quote on wooden decks, balustrades, pergolas and any other outdoor timber construction, please complete the form below and I will get back to you.  Or you can call us on 082 496 5444.

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Wooden Sundeck Installed – Oriel Place, Bluff, Durban

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Wooden sundeck Durban

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This sundeck we installed in Durban was a relatively simple one to build. The client wanted to extend the area around the pool to create more space. It was a simple cleat, beam and joist system with a fascia beam on the front to attach the balustrade uprights to. There was one challenge in that the retaining wall that runs below the paving next to the pool was not parallel to the paving and as such not parallel to the edge of the deck. A bit of fancy timber work was required with supports, small posts and sleeve anchors which created a substructure that became parallel to the pool, paving and resulted in the sundeck being parallel too.

Many of the properties in the Bluff are on situated on steep slopes and decking allows the home owner to reclaim a lot land that would not have been utilised. Terracing the garden is one option and decking over those can add extra space to one’s garden and therefore value to one’s property. I’m not sure if you have noticed, but a garden that has even a few stairs tends not be used as much as a garden that flows on the same level. It is important therefore to design the deck in such a way that you try to keep it all to one plane or the same level. This will result in more of the garden being used. If stairs are necessary one should consider staggering it over a longer length rather than 1m wide stairs.

Wooden sundeck Durban

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On this build posts had to be set again in the cavities of the loffelstein retaining wall. It was a relatively small deck and only took a few days to complete. I am sure the owners are now enjoying it through the last two summers and it has created a lot more space that they can now use in their garden.

It was sealed using a Timberlife Satin Wood Base 28 sealer with a mahogany tint. This sealer soaks into the timber rather than leaving a varnish type finish on the surface. There are two types of this sealer, one for woods of high porosity (pine) and one of timbers of low porosity (balau). Be careful to select the correct one. It is relatively low in wax content compared to their other products which is better for the horizontal surfaces that tend to get hammered by the hot African sun. The higher wax content sealers are good for vertical surfaces such as balustrades, screens, cladding etc. It is very easy to apply as it is very viscous and because it doesn’t dry on the surface, brush marks and runs are impossible to achieve. It simply soaks in. 2 to 3 coats are recommended and in the first year of the decks life it will be necessary to reseal it every 3 to 4 months. As time goes by the maintenance intervals will become longer as the timber is continually being nourished with this sealer.

It is inexpensive and is easy to use so re-sealing every 3 or 4 months in the first year is also inexpensive. There is no need to sand the deck before each application. Simply clean it, high pressures clean it if you wish, and re-seal. I will go into more detail in another article on sealing decks and maintaining them as it is a subject that warrants its own platform. Since writing this I have written and article on deck sealing which can be found here.

For a free no obligation quote or to discuss the design of your deck, please complete the form below and we will contact you.  Or you can call us on 082 496 5444.

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Pool Deck Built in Northdene, Durban

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Pool Deck Builder Durban

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This pool deck we built in Northdene was in excess of 100 square metres. Pool decks can be quite difficult to measure as the pool is sometimes not square and the area to be covered is often an irregular shape. Care should be taken to measure it properly to avoid an underestimate of area for both the client and the contractor. No one, the client nor the contractor, wants to realise half way through the job that it has been grossly under, or over, quoted.

There were two levels on this deck. An area of about 1m running around the pool was in concrete while the rest of the deck was to be laid on soil. Also there was an area towards the steps where the existing concrete sloped upwards in an effort to get rain water to run towards the pool instead of collecting near the wall. This area ran almost up to pool level, so in order to get the deck level at the height we wanted we had to cut our baton at a wedge shape.

We placed posts in concrete throughout the soil area and where we got to the concrete plinth around the pool we switch to a 30mm baton. In total we decked about 100m². It took time to lay these joists and make sure that the tops were all flat and level. Deckboards also took time as we laid them down without a single joint line.

Pool deck builder Durban

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Where a deckboard ends and new one starts, creates of course a join in the surface. What one needs to do is sort of finger the deckboards so that the join is alternated on each adjoining deckboard. This is not only more pleasing to the eye but also prevents lifting in one single line. If a deckboard is going to lift it will almost always lift on the join. If all those joins are in a straight line then it will lift along the entire line. If they have been staggered then it won’t be as noticeable or as serious. So they took longer to deck but are done the correct way.

We built a small hut around the pool pump and heater that came off an adjoining wall. The hut had its own doors and roof and finished it off neatly to cover the pump and filter.

Around the edge that was exposed to the pool water we planned some deckboards to 10mm thick which allowed us to bend them around the curve of the pool. This fascia will protect the deckboards from excessive water from the pool and will ensure they last longer. Wood has a tendency to take in water from the end grain. Picture it as a bunch of straws held together. The water will travel up the end grain and this is where rot will start. Wood takes in very little water from side or face grain and it is therefore imperative to seal the ends off properly. When timber is purchased one will always find that the ends have been sealed using a wax substance. This is done in order to prevent the wood taking in water during transport, often by ship. Once it gets to site, it is cross-cut and this seal is lost. It is important therefore to apply plenty of sealer to this end grain.

Pool deck builder Durban

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Sundeck Installed in Durban Bluff

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Wooden sundecks Durban

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This sundeck I installed in Durban I actually subbed out because I had too many new builds on the go at the same time to be able to do it quickly enough. I use a very good subbie who charges reasonable rates, has his own transport and tools and skilled labour. He has actually been building sundecks in Durban for a lot longer than me and I can therefore leave him to his own devices and let him get on with the job. We follow him to fill sand and seal the deck after he has constructed it.

This deck was built off the bar area and canter levered over the retaining wall above the pool. It went around the corner to a braai area and had a set of stairs for access. An awning was first installed by an awning company and we then decked around the posts of this awning.

It was installed flush with the entrance to the bar which only allowed us about 150mm between the top of the deck and the existing concrete slab on which we were installing it. As a result there was not enough space for any under beams and we employed a slightly different method to a deck on the first floor.

Wooden decks Durban

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The substructure is first built on the ground and is then attached to the wall using sleeve anchors. It results in the entire substructure being flat and in the same plane. This as opposed to a beam that supports a joist sitting on top of it. So to start with a 30 x 102 is cut to length to fit the length of the building to which it will be attached. Joists, at 550 centres, are then T’ed off this and secured from behind using two kalgard screws. A last fascia beam is secured in the same way resulting in a grid type substructure which is then lifted into place, chocked if need be, and secured to the wall using sleeve anchors. The front edge is then supported by short legs which rested directly onto the concrete. There was no need to dig through the concrete as it was solid enough to support the weight of the deck. On the front edge where we have canter levered it we had to drop longer posts down onto the retaining wall and concrete these into the retaining blocks.

The balustrade was an unconventional balustrade as can be seen from the pic. Because the client didn’t want to obstruct his view when in a seated position, we reduced the height of the balustrade to 500mm instead of the normal 1m. We also left the balustrade open and no pickets or cross pieces were installed resulting in a very simple straight lined balustrade. It worked well and looked quite neat afterwards.

Stairs were installed at 1m wide with the same style balustrade or hand rail running up each side.
This deck was intentionally left unsealed so that it would weather. When balau weathers it turns a very attractive grey colour. It’s a personal preference I suppose. Some like it, some don’t. It looks more rustic without looking too tatty. It must be noted though that if one decides to seal it afterwards, then it must be bleached and prepared properly otherwise it will turn very dark, almost black. The greying is actually black algae that grows on the surface of the wood and although it won’t necessarily result in rot, needs to be bleached and removed with a high pressure cleaner before sealing. This is also applicable to decks that have been sealed and are now to be re-sealed and have started greying.

For a free no obligation quote to construct your sundeck please complete the form below and I will get in touch with you.  Or you can call us on 082 496 5444.

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Deck Maintenance and Deck Sealing

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I was prompted to write an article on deck maintenance and deck sealing this week as we had a small quiet patch and as a “filler in” we sanded and sealed a picnic table, repaired a broken ball and claw foot and a leather couch and this reminded me to write this article.

Deck maintenance and deck sealing is always a question asked when quoting on new decks. Clients want to know that if they invest this kind of money in their property, will it be expensive to maintain in subsequent years. The simple answer is no, but if not correctly sealed in the beginning, then it can become an expensive and time-consuming task each time it needs to be maintained. The question is also sometimes asked when choosing between timber or composites.

There are many ways to seal a deck. “Finishing” is the correct term for it and this term also applies to all other timber products. Varnish, polyurethane, oil, sealer, paint etc. are all products used to “finish” a project. When it comes to decks there are certain products to stay well clear of. Because a deck lives outside in the hot African sun, any finish that dries on the surface of the timber will result in problems once it starts to degrade. All finishes will degrade and it is therefore very important to stay away from those that dry on the surface. It is common sense that anything that has dried on the surface will have the tendency to lift, either by cracking, flaking or peeling. When it comes time to maintain the deck, one will either have to sand it all off, or lightly sand it and re coat it with the same or similar product that was used in the beginning and live with a patchy finish. Therefore varnish is a big no-no. Polyurethane, although very durable and hard will also crack and flake and is better left for the purpose it was intended, indoor finishing on cupboard tops etc.

So that leaves us with those finishes that soak into the wood, nourishing them and when they degrade will not peel or flake because they have not dried on the surface. Simple hey? Not so. There are products which contain higher wax contents than others and although still classed a timber sealer, tend to soak in and leave a waxy film on the surface. This waxy film (or coating for want of a better word) will also tend to go blotchy once the sun does it work on it and will therefore also require some degree of sanding. Before we carry on, it is virtually impossible to sand the entire coating off. The electric sanders do not reach all corners, especially on a balustrade. The belt sander, rotex sander and any other sander will be too wide for the deckboard. Because there is a gap between boards, to allow water to drain away from the deck, the surface of the deck is not perfectly flat. So one will need to tilt the sander left and right as they sand down the length of the deckboard in order to remove the whole coating. Try it, it will cure you of varnish for outdoor products. The corners where the machines cannot reach will need to be sanded by hand and your labour bill will be more than erecting a new deck. I tried in my early days and learnt the hard way.

Oils can be used with some success. Raw linseed oil will take weeks to dry as it is raw and completely natural and therefore needs to soak in completely before you can walk on it. Also when the sun bakes down on the deck it will start to get soft and can become very hot to walk on. Boiled Linseed Oil will dry quicker as it contains additives that help the drying process but will still take a few days to dry. In the meantime the dog will run on the deck and leave muddy footprints that will dry into the surface. Again a lesson I learnt when experimenting with my own deck. Boiled Linseed Oil is not really boiled, it just means it has additives to help it dry faster than raw Linseed Oil. So for all intents and purposes it is a sealer. Danish oil will work well. I have not finished a deck in Danish Oil, but have used it quite successfully on outdoor furniture.

So now that we’ve eliminated the definite no no’s, we are left with timber preservatives or penetrating finishes. These are very viscous, almost as viscous as water. They are easy and quick to apply, no runs, no streaks and they go on quickly as they soak right into the wood. Seeing as they soak right in, they cannot flake or peel as there is no coating that has dried on the surface. We use a product manufactured by Timberlife called Satinwood 28 Base. This is a product designed for woods of low porosity. They also manufacture one for woods of high porosity. Don’t get them mixed up or the sealer will disappear right through your pine deck in a day or two or sit like a coating on your balau deck.

At least 2 coats are necessary on the first application and because the deck is new, one will need to reseal it about 3 to 4 months later. After the first year this maintenance interval will increase to every 6 months and the older the deck gets the longer the maintenance interval will become. The deck will slowly become saturated (well almost) with the sealer and it will last longer. It comes in clear and one can add a tint of your choice. They recommend that you use at least the lightest tint as the tint contains stabilisers which slow down the degradation process due to UV in the sun’s rays.

Even though it will need to be done every 3 to 4 months in the first year, the process is simple. Wash the deck and reseal. No need to call in the professionals and pay their rates. No need to sand and no paint stripper required. DIY it on a Saturday or Sunday or get your domestic helper to do it.

Timberlife also supply a product called Ultra Care Gold. This has a higher wax content as mentioned above and is not suitable for horizontal deck surfaces but works very well on the vertical posts of balustrades. They also sell Deckwash which is used to wash the deck on a monthly basis and again nourishes it and leaves it looking new for longer. It is inexpensive and well worth using. Simply mop it on and mop it off.

So in short stay away from finishes that dry on the surface. Stick with those that penetrate the timber and nourish it.  In the case of a deck that has been coated with a coating that has dried on the surface one can either lightly sand and re-seal with the same coating or if budget allows one can remove the coating, by using paint stripper and a high pressure cleaner. Stick to a maximum of 150 bar pressure otherwise the timber can be damaged. I’ve successfully removed coatings on decks with this technique. It is messy, uses a fair amount of water and a considerable amount of paint stripper. Depending on the thickness of the coating, one might need to apply the paint stripper more than once and blast it off with the high pressure cleaner.

High pressure cleaning can also be used to clean the deck before resealing it with Satin Wood 28 Base, but is often not necessary. I say not often necessary if you catch it before the balau starts to “grey”. Balau will tend to turn a grey colour if left unsealed or if the sealer that is there reaches a point where it is almost completely degraded due to the sun’s UV. If this occurs and the deck is then resealed, it will go very dark, regardless of what tint you use. The grey colour is in fact a thin layer of black algae. You will find that it is quite slippery when wet. This black algae needs to be removed first before resealing. Again Timberlife, and Woodoc, and some other manufacturers supply a product that will remove a lot of this by bleaching it. Timbrite is the one I use and it can be scrubbed on with a brush and then hosed off. It won’t take all of it away, so high pressure cleaning is a quicker way of getting rid of it. I would suggest scrubbing Timbrite on with a brush, then high pressure cleaning it off with 150 bars of pressure. This will renew the wood back to almost its original colour.

Leaving a balau deck unsealed will not necessarily speed up the rotting process. Balau is extremely durable as it contains natural resins and oils which repel water and the toxins in it discourage insects. So sealed or unsealed it will still last for years. Some prefer it unsealed to give it the natural grey look, but take note that if you then decide to seal it, clean it first as described above.

All the above also applies to outdoor furniture or any other timber that is in direct contact with the sun’s rays, especially those that are in the horizontal plane as they are getting more direct sunlight than the vertical pieces.

Timberlife are of course not the only ones who sell these products. They can be commonly found in hardware stores (Dulux, Woodoc and Plascon), but buying from the manufacturer is of course cheaper, but a bit more effort is required than popping in to your local hardware store.  All of them do pretty much the same job.

Good luck and remember that a deck is a living thing, nourish it, feed it and it will reward you.  If you’re feeling lazy, not interested in DIY or simply don’t have the time complete this form and I will submit a quote to maintain your timber deck.  Or you can reach us 082 496 5444.

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Sundeck Built at Pennington on the South Coast

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Sundecks South Coast

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This was my first deck I built. I had been toying with the idea of building sundecks for some time, rather than trying to sell furniture which I had been making for some years. There simply isn’t a viable market to make furniture in South Africa unless one has large regular orders and a production line can be set up for a specific product. Saying that I still make the odd Adirondack Chair and picnic table, but my focus changed at that point to decking. Something that could not be imported and sold as flat pack.

I secured this job at a very cheap rate. It was in Pennington which was too far to commute each day so we stayed down there. With a crew that had never built a deck and myself who had studied it in theory only we proceeded to build.

We had to first remove an old deck that had been built using non treated pine which had rotted beyond imagination. It still annoys me to see decks being built out of non-treated pine. Some are often built from H2 treated pine where as they should be at least H3 but preferably H4 treated pine. I will go into more detail on that subject in a later article. Perhaps it is ignorance, and not a specialised deck building company doing the job, but there is a vast difference between the different grades of CCA Treated Pine.

Sundecks South Coast

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Nevertheless, we cut away at our rotten deck which was actually unsafe to walk on so it took some time to carefully remove all pieces and the joists. We left the post in tact as they were teak and were still very good. Once down we placed our cleat on the wall of the house, erected our main beam and set out our joists. There was a canter lever involved which worked well as we had increased the size of our joists to 40 x 140 so we could span them longer and canter lever longer than if we had used 30 x 102 joists.

The deckboards went down without a problem. Our balustrade had to match the neighbour’s balustrades as it was situated in a complex with other decks. It was a simple criss cross style balustrade so went down without much hassle and relatively quickly.
The biggest challenge on this deck was removing the old one which took us just over a full day. Removing a deck can be very dangerous, as you can imagine, and needs to be thought out carefully and taken down with extreme care so as not to damage buildings around it or result in injury to crew.

Sundecks KZN

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We made no money on this job because we had over sized most of our timber, the client had requested 21 x 72 deck boards which were a lot more expensive than the standard 19 x 68 boards and we had to factor in accommodation and food for a week while we built it. Nevertheless it was our first deck and we learnt a lot.

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Timber Deck Installed in Queensburgh, Durban

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This was our second deck we installed in Durban and this time around we got the spec right and didn’t spend all our money on timber. The deck was pretty much on ground level but still required normal 30 x 102 joists as it was not supported by a concrete base. Should there have been a concrete slab on which to support it then we could have used smaller batons instead of joists. We still sued a cleat and beam system although later in my Sundeck installer career I learned the other method of a joist as the cleat attached to the wall with the joists Téd off that and a fascia beam on the front.

There was a fair amount of digging to get the garden to the correct level as the one side was quite a bit more elevated than the other.
This deck had a floating step which was quite large, bigger than a normal tread. It worked very well in that it appears that the step is not attached to the deck at all and is large enough to step down comfortably on to it.

Sundecks builder Durban

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Being our second deck we set everything out and started decking it. Half way through our deckboards we realised that the front beam was not straight. It bowed inwards and as the deck boards went down it became more and more noticeable. So all the deckboards came off, the beam was straightened and back they went. A costly mistake in time but a lesson learnt that will ensure that that mistake never happens again. A simple piece of fish line or builder’s line must be placed along the front edge of the beam when fastening the joists to ensure that it is straight. A false joist can be used here in the middle of the beam attached in the same direction as the joists will lie to hold it in place while the joists go down. The same rule applies for joists. When I joist is placed down it must also be square off the wall and the rest of the joists must be parallel to that one. Timber will always be bowed in one direction or another, some more than others. But they must be pulled straight before being attached. In the case of joists this will ensure that they screw line on the deckboards is straight and more appealing to the eye. Also it keeps the distance between joists exactly 550 between centres for the entire length of the joist. This is particularly important on joists that are placed on the end of the deck as the deckboards will be cut there and if not straight then the deckboards will either not be straight or they will form a lip where the joist bows inwards or outwards.

Sundecks Durban

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The balustrade on this deck was pretty straight forward to. We notched the cross pieces so that they fitted snuggly together in the same plane rather than overlapping them. We built a pergola in balau above which eventually took a roof. The client however attended to the roof sheeting.

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Wooden Sundeck built in The Bluff Durban – Jan 2013

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sundecks durban

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After the last sundeck we built in Durban we were glad to have a small break. Temperatures reached about 38°C and even though we only had to sand and seal it, it was almost impossible to work in those conditions.

This next sundeck in Durban measured about 5.7m wide along the front of the house by 4m deep. It was on the first floor at a height of 3.2m above ground level. Due to the size we had to support it using 4 balau posts each of 90mm x 90mm in size and the other two ends of the beams were set in feet cut and anchored to the wall. Initially we were going to set the posts in concrete the normal 600mm deep. However the location was in the Bluff which is almost completely a sand dune. We dug to 1m deep in sand that had the same consistency as building sand, and could still stick a re-bar another metre into the ground. Instead of the normal 600 deep in concrete method we had to throw feet or pads of 1m x 1m x 200mm with re-bar set in the middle. This created a larger footprint and will prevent the posts from sinking over time. The re-bar ensures that the whole pad has to sink at the same time instead of cracking. The posts were then set on top of those with a re bar hammered into the bottom of the post and drilled into the concrete.  See the two pics alongside.

timber decks durban

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The posts are set as square to the wall as possible but there is no need to set them exactly square as they will simply support the beams and any difference won’t make a material effect structurally.

This deck needed 4 posts as the length was 5.7m and it is generally quite difficult to find beams in that size that long so they had to be joined in the middle with a post to support them. We were using 30 x 102 joists which can be spanned a maximum of 1.8m between beams so two beams were required thus doubling up the number of posts.

We cut the posts to length on the ground and then connected our beams using a joiner block to create one long beam. They were half checked and the balau beams of 30 x 220 were placed and secured on the half checks. Galvanised hex bolts were used to secure the beams to the posts.

The joists went on next and were left long so that the deckboards could start from the house side and the joists cut off once we reached our desired depth. If the joists are cut to length before the deckboards go on, then it will result in a half deckboards being used to finish it on the house side. What can also happen is that the last deckboard is not only a half deckboard but also a wedged shaped one. So deckboards are always started on the house side and run to the desired depth and the joists are then cut to fit.

Timber deck installers Durban

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On these types of decks I also like installing a fascia beam of the same size as the joists so as to provide support on the front of the deck as well as providing a beam that the balustrade can be attached to. Without this the balustrade would need to be attached to the main beam beneath which would mean the main beam would need to be set near the end of the deck and perfectly square to the deckboards or the balustrade will run out of parallel to the boards. With this method it is not important if the main beam is not perfectly square as it doesn’t have to line up with anything on the deck itself. It is merely there for support and the tolerance is therefore much greater.
The balustrade uprights of 60 x 60 were installed prior to the deckboards so that we could deck around them by notching the boards. Once the boards were down, the cross supports on the balustrade were installed 100mm off the deck surface for the bottom one and flush with the top of the posts for the top one. This top cross support can sometimes be set 100 down from the top of the uprights, but setting it directly underneath the capping provides greater support to the capping and will prevent it from bowing over time. Pickets of 25 x 30 were then set equidistant apart between balustrade uprights, cut to length and a capping of 30 x 102 placed on top and secured.

Screw holes were epoxied closed with a saw dust mixture to match the colour, sanded and sealed.

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Wooden Sundeck Built in Forest Hills Durban

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This sundeck we built in Forest Hills Durban was an add-on to a deck we completed in 2012. The client initially built a 20 odd square metre deck off the front of his grant flat. It was then decided to extend the deck around the corner to tie up with the kitchen door.
We needed to decide which way the deck boards should run. Traditionally they should have run the length of the deck extension, but because of the way the existing deck had been built, it would have resulted in an odd line that would have been visually unappealing. Had the extension been built at the same time as the deck then the deckboards could have met at a 45° angle to turn the corner. Instead they would need to either meet at a 90° angle or they would need to run the same way (i.e. the width of the deck rather than the length). It was decided to run them the same way as the existing deck resulting in them running the width of the deck rather than the length.

With this in mind we set out to lay the substructure which consisted of long joists of about 9.2m. The width of the deck was 1.2m so we set 2 joists and a cleat along the wall. The challenge in setting such long joists of course is to ensure that they are set straight. Our joists were each 4.5m long so had to be joined in the middle without allowing them to bend or bow at the join. It was easier to join the joists beforehand, set a false deckboard of pine to hold them at their 1.2m width and then dig our holes for posts. We used H4 CCA gum poles as posts as they would not be visible from the outside and budget did not allow for balau posts. The poles were half checked to accept the joists, secured to the joists using kalgard 60mm screws and concreted in with 6 inch nails hammered into the base to prevent the post from sinking over time. A dry mix was used so as to be able to work with the post and joist immediately after setting them.

wooden decks Durban

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There was a concrete gas bottle plinth that was not decked and we had to deck around that and fill the vertical surfaces with balau cladding for aesthetics. Also the plinth that existed directly outside the kitchen door was slightly higher than we would have liked and as such we could not use our 30 x 102 joist and had to use a 30mm baton to arrive at the same height as the rest of our joists.
Once the substructure was down it was relatively plain sailing as our rough pre-cut balau deckboards were screwed down. We intentionally left them slightly long and after they were all down, snapped a chalk line along the edge and cut with a skill saw to get a straight line.

We cladd a few ends to close it all in, epoxied our screw holes to prevent water collecting in them and being soaked up by the end grain. Once dry we sanded flat and sealed using a top quality timber preservative with an oak tint.
A few pot plant stands were thrown in from the scrap off cuts which will now keep the pot plants off the deck and allow the water to drain away quickly and prevent accelerated degradation of the balau.

10m² took us 2 days to complete. The crew received a nice bonus based on square meterage and it was off to the next job.

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Wooden Sun Decks

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English: Timber Decking Europe 4

English: Timber Decking Europe 4 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Although wooden decks have always been popular as a method of construction it is becoming more and more popular as trends move towards more natural methods and finishes in construction while considering environmental impact and the foot print building creates.  Provided timber is sourced from sustainably managed forests, wooden decks are of course as natural as one can get.

Wooden decks add value to your property at an affordable cost, in comparison to other construction methods, and, if well looked after, can last a lifetime.  They complement our outdoor lifestyle in South Africa and offer years of enjoyment.

STEEL, CONCRETE OR TIMBER

The choice between using concrete, steel or timber in your sun deck is a complex choice with many variables to consider.  One should take into account the following when making a decision: –

  • Cost effectiveness
  • Ease of build
  • Environmental impact
  • Longevity

It is often best to research this independently based on your unique requirements and conditions.

THE TIMBER USED

There are a number of different types of timber available which have been carefully selected to fit your taste, your pocket and the environment we found ourselves in.

The most common timbers used are: –

SA Pine:

This must be CCA Treated to at least an H4 level if outdoors and exposed to the elements.  CCA stands for Copper, Chrome and Arsenic.  The copper prevents algae growing on the timber caused by dampness.  Algae causes rot by breaking down the fibres in wood.  Hence the wood can get wet without rotting.  The arsenic prevents insect infestation and the chrome binds to two to prevent them from leaching out of the timber.  The amounts of chemicals present in the timber do not affect humans, animals or plants in any significant way and it is therefore safe to humans, plants and animals.  The level of treatment (H4) refers to the strength of the solution and the pressure at which it is forced into the timber.

Balau:

Sourced from South East Asia this timber is the most cost effective hardwood.  There is no need to pre treat it as it is naturally resistant to rot and decay due to the high levels of oils and resins present in the timber.  Balau decking boasts a fire rating of Class A which is the same as concrete or steel.

Garapa, Massaranduba, Keruing:

These are all equally matched to Balau in terms of durability and workability but are slightly more expensive.  It is therefore common to use Balau as the sub structure with these timbers as the deck boards and visible components of the sun deck.

It is not advisable to use pine as your substructure with a balau or similar hardwood as deck boards as the timbers expand and contract at different rates and can cause screws to either break or pull out.

When taking into account what timber to use one must remember that the cost to install the deck is often the greater percentage of the total cost and the benefits of paying slightly more to get a balau deck are far greater than the cost saving of using pine.

Composites:

Composites are manufactured deck boards using largely re-cycled plastic.  They are available in a range of colours.  The argument is that they are more enviro-friendly than wood and that installation is easier, and therefore less expensive to install.  They are normally more expensive per square metre of deck in terms of materials and it is argued that they are maintenance free. However they cannot be sanded once they are installed as they are a plastic composite and should scratches occur on the surface they may prove difficult to remove.  They are installed using a CCA Treated Pine baton or joist and the substructure is normally pine.  They are however being installed successfully and should not be ignored.

SEALING OR FINISHING A WOODEN DECK

The myth that a timber sun deck is expensive to maintain is unfounded, provided it is installed using good quality timber and construction methods are sound.  If finished with the correct sealer, maintenance can be reduced to a minimum and maintenance intervals can be increased.

A common mistake that is often made is to coat the deck with a coating that does not penetrate the deck surface but rather dries on the surface.  With the hot African sun beating down on the deck the horizontal surfaces often start to crack and flake.  Using a penetrating timber preservative avoids this occurring and reduces labour costs at scheduled maintenance intervals.

Screw holes should always be filled with an epoxy to avoid them “popping” and to avoid water penetrating the timber through the screw hole.  One must remember that water penetrates wood largely from the end grain and therefore any screw holes left unfilled will allow water to easily penetrate the timber.  End grains should also be well sealed to avoid this.

After taking into account your unique requirements and environment it is difficult to argue that a well constructed timber sun deck, using quality timber from reputable suppliers will not add value to your property while providing many years of enjoyment.

The warmth of wood cannot be replicated by other building materials.